Category Archives: Travels

Amrum 3 to 11 December – part II

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Day 5

First, a walk on the Teerdeich just after breakfast:

After “theory” we went to the beach. I forgot to turn on “Mapmywalk” till later, but here is my basic route.

With a bit of time before dinner, I went out to play with the Christmas lights around the hotel:

And just a little bit of spooky street:

Day 7

The last day. Tomorrow return from relatively Corona free Amrum to relatively Corona ridden Berlin for a bleak midwinter.

All of Amrum is 2G/3G compliant like the rest of Germany – public transport (even the youngest school children wear masks on the bus), cafés, restaurants, and hotels – except the hotel we have been staying in – Sonnenresort Hüttmann. In fact, the manager told several course participants that masks were not required inside the hotel. Most guests wore them anyway, since it is a national requirement, but there were several “Querdenker” who would even go to the breakfast buffet maskless – consistently, even when it was audibly frowned upon. Talk about disrespectful. I have actually always found that a bit disgusting even before Corona, and I am glad I am an early riser so that I eat breakfast before everbody else have a chance to spew their aerosol all over the food. This is one of many ways to make sure you never get, for example, a cold, or worse.

Today’s walk went past a dense birch forest, via Wittdün harbour, through the dunes to Vriakhörnsee (supposedly a bird sanctuary but there were no birds today (compared to a couple of ducks when I was there on Saturday), and from there through a fantastic landscape of white dunes – strenuous but totally worth it – to the lighthouse.

A week of heaps of fresh air, peace and quiet, walking and taking photographs, and not least Martin Timm’s teachings – energy fully restored. And then just like that – we are all on our ways home, and much as I enjoy train travel, I can already feel the new found energy draining out of me thinking about the decisions I will have to make. I really thought my move to Berlin was my last till I had to be carried out feet first, as they say, and the thought of moving again seems a bit insurmountable. But so does the thought of being back in noisy, annoying Berlin. Paradoxically, until a short time ago, Berlin was for decades the only place in the world worth living, if you asked me. But with Covid with us for another four-five years, at best, I am not going to make use of all the things that made Berlin so attractive to me, except perhaps exhibitions, because they don’t let too many people in, and you are in control of the distance you keep to people. I just can’t see myself stuck in any kind of concert hall or theatre auditorium for hours on end without being able to move. I probably will not even attend any more in-person pub quizzes. So right now I am toying with the idea of renting out my flat through Coming Home Berlin, and renting a place on the North Sea. Decisions, decisions.

Below photo taken at Itzehoe Station where the stop was long enough for the smokers to go out for some fresh air.

Amrum 3 to 11 December – part I

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Some time in spring, before I knew of Max’s existence, I signed up for this photography course (experimental landscape photography). I had been signed up for the same course last year but it was cancelled, for obvious reasons.

For a while after I adopted Max, I was hoping to take him with me, but as time went by, I realised that that was not going to be possible. It is a nearly 12-hour journey in total, door to door, and Max’s limit at the moment on the S-Bahn or a regional train is about 50 minutes before he gets anxious, restless and unruly, for a large part due to the muzzle, I think. Having him with me and running around on those wide beaches would have been great, but getting here – a total nightmare. I then dithered between cancelling my attendance or trying to find a good dog pension for Max. I mentioned this to our trainer, Astrid, and she highly recommended Lucky Dog Berlin’s Hundeferienhof. When it turned out they could accommodate Max at quite short notice and after one getting-to-know-each-other meeting in Grunewald, I decided to strike, despite some people saying it was too early since Max has only been with me a little less than six months. Astrid said it would do him good, that he would get lots of exercise and be around balanced dogs that he can learn from.

Also, I could really do with a break. I love Max, but he is an exhausting flatmate and the last six months have been quite a rollercoaster ride. I know he is in good hands, and I was not even quite aware how tired I was till I flopped into the seat in the ICE to Hamburg, to proceed by two regional trains, a two-hour ferry ride and a short bus trip to get to Hotel Hüttmann in Norddorf. I love train travel, not to mention ferry rides, and savoured every minute of that day, alternately reading, staring out the window, and looking forward to the course. I have attended several other courses with the same teacher and thoroughly enjoyed them all.

Incidentally, I also had a recent cancer scare. Now, nobody goes through life without at least one of those. This was my third, all more than a decade apart. I can barely remember the first one, but I was quite young and I think I mostly thought “why me”? The second time I thought, well, you have been lucky before, so why not also now. But with this one, I really thought my number was up, and spent the days waiting for the result trying to decide whether to accept a gruelling treatment or just get it over and done with as quickly as possible (went for the latter).

Quite apart from the fact that, thanks to the anti-vaxxers, this is no time to be needing medical attention for anything other than Covid19. The capacity is just not there.

I spent a lot of time wondering for how long I would be able to take proper care of Max and whether he would have to go back to the nomadic existence, being shoved around between families who all sooner or later decided they did not want to keep him. Much as the thought of being spared all the indignities of old age, when I adopted Max I was vain enough to think I had till about the age of 75 (so another six years or so) before they set in for real, and that would cover his life span as well, so that we will grow decrepit and die at round about the same time. He will turn eight in the near future (although seeing him sprint, you would not know it).

It all drained me of whatever energy I had left, and that energy, for some reason, did not really come back with the message of false alarm quite recently. Why do we do this to ourselves before even knowing for certain that there is reason to worry? I recently saw a book entitled “Don`t Feed the Monkey Mind – how to stop the cycle of anxiety and worry”. Perhaps I should read it, although I should know what it says after having been through a bout of anxiety and panick attacks shortly before I moved to Berlin. Basically, it all comes down to confronting those feelings and breathing into them, examining them thoroughly. That is the short version.

Anyway, after arriving in Norddorf, I was glad to have two days to myself before meeting with the other course attendants and our teacher. The weather could have been better, but I did manage to walk a total of about 15 km each day – to make up for the relative inactivity and unhealthy eating (railway station fare) on the day of travel.

Day 1: Wittdün and surroundings

Day 2: Around the northern tip of Amrum, from Wattenmeer to the North Sea

The route of this morning’s walk on Mapmywalk.

Quite strenuous, walking in sand a lot of the way, but I saw a lot of wild geese, and three seals :-). And no people.

Day 3: Start of the course

Went out to catch some morning light before starting the course.

I did not understand today’s assignment so I just took these photos when we went out: I walked on top of the Teerdeich and got properly frozen and windblown.

The first three photos are of fellow course attendants spotted from the top of the Teerdeich. Here is the route on Mapmywalk.

Day 4

Woke up to a strong wind, poor visibility and a bit of sleet so decided against the Teerdeich and went to the Badestrand on the North Sea side for my between breakfast and start of the course walk.

Later, we went out and continued experimenting, especially with the low-light and rainy conditions :-). This is where we went.

Day 5

Woke up to rain and a forecast that said warning for gale force wind, and the hotel’s comfortable lounge and a book were calling out my name. But has anyone ever regretted getting up off their fat arse and going out, almost no matter what the weather is like? I certainly always feel a lot less sad outdoors. Also, after breakfast and the theory session, the wind had subsided somewhat and it had stopped raining. Here is the day’s route.

The first photo is the view from the balcony of my hotel room.

The scrolling is starting to annoy me, so will continue in a new post above.