Category Archives: The Life of a Danish Pensioner in Berlin

….. Helgoland and Cuxhaven continued

Share Button

Continued from previous post.

IN PROGRESS

Day five (29 August): Breakfast and katamaran ferry from central Hamburg to Helgoland in the morning

Lovely ferry ride appealing to my obsession with all things martime, and resulting in an overdose of photos below.

First impression of Helgoland: Duty free shops everywhere, and people from the ferry darted towards them as if their lives depended on it.

Secondly: don’t spend the night in Helgoland. Accommodation is GROSSLY overpriced and an even worse rip-off than Kassel during Documenta. Base yourself in Cuxhaven, take an early ferry to Helgoland, walk around the island, see “Lange Anna”, take the ferry to Düne and walk around there, then take the ferry back to Cuxhaven.

That is all the time you need. Beautiful as it is, there is no reason to linger in Helgoland. You will only find junk food (unless you have booked in advance in one of the two restaurants with real food), and bad coffee.

By the way, it is ironic that this island sells itself on its fresh air, and then it is full of chainsmokers.

Here some photos from the ferry ride and upon arrival.

Day six (30 August): Helgoland

First too many photos of the cliffs, and then too many photos of the gulls:

Day seven (31 August): A walk around Helgoland-Düne and later the Katamaran ferry to Cuxhaven

Day eight: in Cuxhaven

A funny thing about Cuxhaven: You are not allowed to eat between 9.30 and 12.30. At all. In the hope of getting back to my routine of only eating twice a day (of necessity, as outlined elsewhere on this site – not because it amuses me), I skipped breakfast, went out quite early, and started to look for a café around mid-morning. None were open. I then tried a couple of hotels in the hope that their breakfast buffets were still open, and everywhere the reaction was the same: “What – you want to eat NOW? But it is 11.00 o’clock!?! – you will not find anything to eat anywhere till 12.30 at the earliest”, looking at me as if I had just dropped down from another planet. Very strange. So the concept of intermittent fasting, a by now common weight (and health) management strategy especially for people over 50, has not reached Cuxhaven yet.

Another thing that has not reached Cuxhaven yet is that people need wifi. The one in my hotel was weak and unstable and close to useless. The hotel staff acted as if I just had to accept that as a fact of life (but life in which century?).

So my idea of spending a couple of weeks here some time in winter has been dropped. Instead, I will try to find out if Bremerhaven might have moved a bit closer to the the 21st century.

Anyway, I ran into some kind of kite-surfing festival and took a million photos.

Day nine, 2 September: Boat tour through the harbour to sandbanks with seals, then trai back to Berlin in the afternoon.

Hamburg/Helgoland/Cuxhaven August/September 2024

Share Button

Primary purpose: annual meeting of AIACE Deutschland and an opportunity to perhaps connect with old friends and definitey with friends made last year in Dortmund.

Afterwards quick visits to Helgoland and Cuxhaven which have both been on my bucket list for a long time. And to see the sea! The North Sea Wattenmeer is my favourite region in the whole world. And of course an opportunity to reconnect with friends made last year in Dortmund.

I also can’t wait to get away from the neighbours from hell – Cresco Real Estate’s inifinity project with the pompous and ridiculous name of “Victoria zu Berlin” – the world’s ugliest building and longest-lasting renovation project which has basically rendered my balcony unusable for the last seven summers.

Day one: Arrival in Hamburg, welcome reception and dinner

On the ICE on the way there: What the train driver sees. Something I have never seen before: A (lockable) glass door to the driver’s cabin, and my seat was right behind. That must be incredibly annoying for the drivers.

Day two: Bus tour of Hamburg, lunch in a restaurant in the fish market, more bus tour. Evening free.

Great bus tour with an amazing guide. Lunch in Restaurant Elbspeicher on the harbour front.

The first photo is of a converted bunker. Later the oldest semi-detached housing in the world. There is also a bit of experimenting black and white vs colour, and two cases of double exposure.

We also visited the plaza of the Elbphilharmonie. This time, I had more time and opportunity to walk all the way around and take photos (rather than being there for a concert). I tried my hand at some panoramas for a polyptych. I still have a lot to learn in terms of aspect ratio etc., or I could be less ambitious with the number of panels, but I like that format.

And an attempt at a multipanel panorama of Hamburg as seen from a walk around the Plaza of the Elbphilharmonie. I still have a lot to learn in terms of aspect ratio etc., and I guess I could be a litte less ambitious with the number of panels, but I like this format.

Already tired of bland German/northern European food morning, noon and night (less than 48 hours away from my spice rack at home and my local Indian and Vietnamese restaurants :-)), I found two viable alternatives within a very short walk from our hotel in Altona – one Indian and one Vietnamese (Vina Haus, Mendelssohnstraße – don’t seem to have a website), so one for tonight and one for tomorrow night. Mood considerably improved :-).

Day three: AIACE-DE meeting, lunch, and a programme which I shall skip and go to the Henri Cartier-Bresson exhibition in Bucerius Kunstforum instead.

The meeting went according to plan until it did not. I had been wondering how we were supposed to elect people for several posts on the board, a.o. a new chair, without knowing who the candidates were. It turned out that if you belong to “the inner circle”, you know such things, but I do not, and I did not, so the beautiful weather started to draw me outside like a magnet and I figured a long walk for the rest of the day would be a healthier way to spend my time.

I started by walking to the Bucerius Kunstforum to see this amazing exhibition of works by Henri Cartier-Bresson.

I then proceeded to the area by the Elbphilharmonie and along the harbour front to Dockland and from there up some stairs and through a very nice area of Altona with lots of little cafés and restaurants and back to the hotel.

Bonus tip: Near Dockland, on the left side of the street when walking back towards the centre and JUST before the stairs leading to the upper level and Altonaer Balkon ist Café Schmidt with good coffee and delicious-looking cakes. Also, if you need a reward after the treck up the stairs, go left in the direction of the Altonaer Balkon and find a small beer garden called Hafenmeisterei in a very idyllic location.

Day four: Bus tour, lunch, bus tour, and farewell dinner

Guided tour of Hamburg City Hall (in four groups in two buses – very well organised). I skipped that. The weather was too nice and I cannot imagine that it is much less ugly inside than outside.

Afterwards a lovely two-hour harbour cruise. Always nice to be on water. I love Hamburg’s maritime flair, which my overdose of photos illustrate (but oddly enough, Berlin still feels more like home). The two megayachts in the drydock are the Ali Baba and the Luna.

And finally, a buffet dinner and the end of another very well organised annual meeting.

Day five: Moving on to Helgoland …. continued in this post.

Two years cancer free (and boob free but you can’t have everything)

Share Button

Many second anniversaries this summer.

Two years since diagnosis; two years since I was told I would most likely not need chemo; two years since final decision on double mastectomy without reconstruction; two years since Max my dog moved to his new home – that was schlimm but I had invaluable help from my neighbours Sabine and Frank, and I was so glad my brother and sister-in-law were here that week).  I am already past those anniversaries and coming up is the two years after surgery, and a week later final confirmation that all margins were clear and I would not even need radiation.

Another steep learning curve and meeting new friends in similar situations. Many thoughts still going through my head. Why am I so lucky when women much younger than me are not? About trying to live as healthily as possible with the dual purpose of a) avoiding recurrence (which they say is not likely to happen at my age – in other words I will have died of other causes, but as I increasingly see in other examples – cancer is totally unpredictable – positively as well as negatively), and b) mitigating the side effects of the hormone blockers which some call the evil, turbo-aging pill.

Thoughts about the inequality in health care – even between neighbouring countries like Denmark and Germany – from what I hear from women in Denmark, I am definitely in a better position and could not have been in better hands, and that is the sentiment I still feel. Excellent follow-up and support from both gynecologist and GP, and even from my ophthalmologist 😊 who, when I was a bit anaemic post-surgery advised against iron supplements and told me one spoonful of Molasses (who knew?) would have my iron levels back to normal within days. Small detail, but demonstrates an interest.

About being beyond flat and trying to find clothing styles that camouflage the concavities a bit, rather than wearing the highly uncomfortable and impractical, albeit health-insurance-paid prosthetics and wondering why nothing a bit more comfortable has been invented yet and why we who no longer have breasts but are alive have to suffer further from saving society the costs of complications, implant syndrome etc.

But also about people who I thought were friends who fell totally silent when told about my diagnosis, as in NOT ONE WORD, which I guess might be better than “if there is anything I can do …..” which usually does not mean anything anyway. And not only that, later, even now, I get questions like can I recommend an exhibition, or a restaurant. Just like that. Not even good to see you back on your feet so quickly, for example. As if nothing happened.

I will try to organise all of these thoughts in the following, but I am well aware that I might be repeating myself since much of it is already described in this and subsequent categories: https://www.hellemoller.eu/category/a-bump-in-the-road-summer-2022/.

Weimar and Buchenwald 3-5 July 2024

Share Button
Main purpose: to get away from Cresco’s infinity project next door, with its incessant noise which has now ruined every summer for us since about 2018. And now I don’t think Victoriahöfe, or Victoria zu Berlin as they now pompously call it, will ever be finished. Nobody seems interested in ever finishing it. Then rather continue to make life an eternal misery for everyone living in the area. As if the fact that it is one of the ugliest buildings in world is not enough to ruin the day for everyone looking at it.

Secondary purpose, to visit this exhibition in three parts:

“Together, the three parts of “Bauhaus and National Socialism” present a new, often uncomfortable history of the Bauhaus and its legacies. For, long after 1945, the illusion of modernism—and the Bauhaus with it—as uniquely “good” and “persecuted” persisted. As the fates of many Bauhaus members show, an innovative artistic attitude alone does not protect against the seductions of fascism. Therefore the role of art in a liberal and cosmopolitan society is a question that animates the exhibition in all three of its venues.”

But upon arrival in Weimar, I started with a visit to the Buchenwald Memorial.

I have lost count of the number of people who have asked me why I “keep visiting those places”. First of all, since the fall of the wall (1989), I have now visited a breathtaking total of three concentration camps: Ravensbrück, which can be visited on a daytrip from Berlin, Sachsenhausen, likewise, as part of a walk with Empor Berlin, and now Buchenwald, since I was visiting Weimar anyway. Hardly a matter of “keep visiting”.

I always ignore the question, since I do not feel that I have to justify anything to anybody, but if I were to, one of my reasons would be that “those places” are a significant part of the very recent history of the part of the world in which I have always lived and worked, and the country, in which I was a frequent tourist for many years, and where I have chosen to live since 2016.

Since I do not wish to hear their answers, I never ask people to justify them trying to pretend that that chapter never happened. It is a bit like with anti-vaxxers – I really do not want to hear what they have to say on the subject.

I do know that some of them would say that a visit would depress them. Oh dear. Or that it would make them feel queasy. Well, boohoo. Scarred for life then, are we? Newsflash: It is not about you.

Anyway, a strange thing happened this morning when I was trying to find the bus from Weimar to Buchenwald: The bus station in Weimar is being renovated, stops relocated, and the place is confusing, so:

Me, to a friendly-faced lady, around my age, perhaps a little older: Do you know this area well?

Her: Lived here all my life.

Me: Would this be the right direction to the Buchenwald Memorial?

Her, looking a little puzzled: Is that near here?

Me, feeling more than a little puzzled: Apparently a twenty-minute bus ride away.

Her: But surely, the bus stop would not actually be called THAT?

True story. Talk about being in denial.

PS: Actually it is (called THAT).

The mind boggles. But anyway, here are some photos. What always strikes me during my “many” visits to “those places” is the idyllic surroundings.

Day two and three:

On the way to the first museum, a name which is familiar in Berlin, too:

Museum Neues Weimar

The Bauhaus as a Site of Political Contest, 1919-1933, illuminates artistic and political conflicts at the Bauhaus. These began with the founding of the art and design school in Weimar and continued unabated when the Bauhaus moved to Dessau and Berlin.”

Bauhaus Museum

Removed – Confiscated – Assimilated, 1930/1937, focuses on the “Degenerate Art” confiscations in 1937 and the campaign that preceded it in Weimar. As early as 1930, authorities had ordered the removal of over 70 works by artists such as Lyonel Feininger and Paul Klee from the Weimar Castle Museum. In 1937, more than 450 works were confiscated – a cultural loss to Weimar’s collections that is still felt today.”

Bonus tip: a nice café inside the museum (downstairs), and a good Vietnamese restaurant on the corner of the same square.

Schiller-Museum 

“The core of the exhibition deals with Bauhaus members “Living in the Dictatorship, 1933-1945″. It addresses the balancing acts they performed in the face of the new political circumstances after 1933. Many Bauhäusler had few choices; under an anti-leftist and racist regime, they lost their jobs and were forced into exile. At least twenty-one Bauhaus students perished in ghettos and concentration camps. However, the majority were not targets of the Nazi regime. In fact, they participated in propaganda exhibitions and design fairs, and they designed film posters, furniture, household goods, and even busts of Hitler.”

This, for me, was the most interesting of the three Bauhaus/Nazi-related exhibitions. However, the other two museums were interesting because of their other content and so should not be missed in this context.

Random photos from walking between museums and around Weimar:

Starting to think about next travels. Kostrzyn, ….. Katowice, …… Georgia, …..?

Share Button

Before Covid19, I was quite systematically visiting cities and towns in Poland, and did manage quite a lot, since that is now my new neighbouring country, but recently, I seem to have forgotten that project, except those that can be reached on foot from Frankfurt/Oder and Görlitz.

I have also always been hearing good things about Georgia. Unfortunately, in the meantime, I decided to never fly again, so I may have to abandon that principle briefly, unless I want to spend three days getting there.

But for now, I am looking for good websites about all of the above.

Already visited Gdansk, Krakow, Lodz, Lublin, Poznan, Szczecin, Torun, Warsaw, and Wroclaw. Would like to visit Warsaw again.

Visitors on my balcony June 2024

Share Button

A rare honour nowadays. Despite my attempts to attract pollinators by sowing several pots of wildflowers amongst the herbs, only the marjoram attracted a couple of visitors.

More unwelcome visitors are the pigeons, rats with wings, that seem to be looking for nesting places almost all year round. One afternoon I watched one flying in and out of a neighbour’s porch with construction material. I think it has been discovered in the meantime and the structure disposed of. It is not nice to return home from holiday, for example, to find a nest full of eggs, or worse ……..

I am still trying to photograph the swifts that are sometimes swarming in great numbers near my balcony, but even with my camera locked and loaded, and a lot of the time perfect light conditions, they are too, well …. swift …..

Pfaueninsel 28 June 2024

Share Button

I am not sure why it has taken me so long to visit “Peacock Island“, except perhaps the fact that I have never really liked peacocks (pompous divas) nor old buildings, nor manicured parks, and all those are represented there.

Bus 218 leaves from S Bahn Station Wannsee once every hour (on weekends twice every hour) and stops by the small ferry which leaves more or less on demand and the rides takes about fifteen seconds. A return ticket costs 6 euro and can be bought from machines – one for cash and one for cards.

As it turned out, most of the buildings there are currently being renovated and therefore scaffolded and inaccessible, so I ended up taking many more photos of peacocks than I had expected.

Fortunately, it is not all overly-manicured park – there are some more unkempt areas more to do with real nature. I heard many birds, but saw just a few. Mid summer is not the best time for birdwatching.

I was pleased to ascertain that peacocks are clumsy and inelegant flyers :-).

The island is easily walkable, though due to the occasional thunder and heavy rain, I did not stay long enough to walk all around it and am therefore definitely planning to go back.

There is a kind of café with food kind of one step up from junk food, and what looked like nice, homemade cakes, and there is also a rather large restaurant on “the mainland” just by the ferry.

Definitely a nice day out

Happy election day (and a couple of photos from yesterday’s boat tour with Derk Ehlert)

Share Button

To all the morons and retards who have been keeping many of us awake most of the night by yacking and laughing incessantly and loudly on their balconies, thinking the whole world ought to hear their words of wisdom and that they are wildly interesting and funny to listen to: I have news for you: very few people are, and nothing is that funny, and most people should do the world a favour and keep their mouths shut more often instead of talking such a load of shite most of the time. I wish I had a way to keep you awake all day, now that you have finally gone to bed. #ihatepeople

By the way, on yesterday’s boat tour (Langer Tag der Stadtnatur) with Derk Ehlert, a.k.a. “Berlins Wildtier Gott”, about a third of the passengers blithered their stupid platter loudly and unashamedly THE WHOLE TIME. Wastes of space humans are.

30th Anniversary Berliner Wanderclub

Share Button

A very enjoyable day extremely well organised by Margot Dietzsch, Thomas Lenk, and Joachim Wenzel. Joachim led a longer walk, and Margot led and narrated an interesting walk around Tegeler Schloß, themed around the brothers Humboldt.

Everybody then boarded the Moby Dick at Greenwich Promenade for a lovely two-hour boat tour, and we finished off the day with a meal at Tegeler Seeterrassen where they coped smoothly with an onslaught of 38 people who all ordered different courses.

World Heritage Cruise with the Berlin branch of AIACE-DE 29 May

Share Button

Very nice and enjoyable afternoon as usual efficiently organised by Renata Fackler.

I got there early so played with ICM on some rocks, and photographed some birds before we boarded.