PHOTOGRAPHY: PERSONAL FAVOURITES 2023 DECEMBER
Some whacky photos from New Year’s Eve 31 January 2023
Since it is very difficult to do fireworks justice anyway, there is always ICM.
Two exhibitions to do with Ukraine one way or another, and modern architecture in Wolfsburg 2 January 2024
Edit 3 January: Postponed once again. I did go to see the exhibition in the museum, but the weather was so bad that I skipped the rest of the programme. I will return as soon as there are new, interesting exhibitions and the weather is more stable.
Note to self: perhaps stay a night or two and include the following in the routes:
Tiergehege Wolfsburg, and the two churches by Alvar Aalso: Stephanus Kirche and Heilig-Geist Kirche.
Original programme:
Phaeno Science Centre designed by Zaha Hadid and Alvar Aalto Kulturhaus (from the outside), Planetarium (from the outside), Islamic Cultural Centre (from the outside) and exhibition in Kunstmuseum Wolfsburg (11.00 to 18.00) featuring works from Charkiwer Schule der Fotografie in an exhibition called Ukrainian Dreamers.
Also buildings designed by Alvar Aalto.
Autostadt Pavilion (from the outside), exhibition in the municipal gallery, opening hours: 10.00—17.00. Read more here: https://www.staedtische-galerie-wolfsburg.de/ausstellungen#fabian-knecht.
Two walks with Empor Berlin
Both walks led by Eckehard Heiber.
28 December: Historical city walk through Mitte, part of it in my Kiez, or almost – the route on MapMyWalk here. (I left the walk a little more than half way through).
31 December: Another historical city walk from Blankenfelde via Rosenthal to Schönholzer Heide. The route on MapMyWalk here.
Took these when I was nearly home:
Breakfast
On days where it fits in with other activities, I combine breakfast and lunch, usually with a big salad mid morning. The fancy word for that is intermittent fasting. I just call it skipping breakfast.
But on days where I need to eat breakfast, for example when going out for a long(-ish) walk starting relatively early in the day, I often like something with oats, for example overnight oats, as long as they have been enhanced with healthy and flavourful ingredients and are not too sweet. It is practical since it has to be prepared the night before.
For breakfast this morning, I had prepared these in the following way:
For two servings (two persons, or two days, as it will easily keep for another night):
Soak two tblsp chia seeds and two tblsp black sesame seeds in water for a little while, stirring occasionally to prevent the chia seeds from clumping.
Add (EVERYTHING organic, of course):
200 g oats
50 g whole buckwheat
Grated peel of one orange (this especially MUST be organic)
2 tsp cacao – the real, clean stuff, not cocoa: CACAO
2 tsp baobap powder (optional, adds health but not a lot of flavour)
2 tblsp tahin
One pinch salt
One pinch cardamon
1 tsp cinnamon (Ceylon – NOT cassia)
1 tsp ginger powder
One half tsp turmeric
One grated carrot
2 tblsp nuts, chopped, I used hazelnuts this time
One pinch chili (optional – that is just me …..)
4 medjool dates, chopped, more if you like it really sweet
2 tblsp – and this is where I always get stuck – they are like tiny raisins, in Danish: Korender, in German Korinthen, and google does not know what they are in English :-). These too must be organic, otherwise they are waxed and disgusting.
250 dl milk or to your desired texture (I always use a plant milk, this time one with rice and hazelnuts).
Mix well and leave in the fridge overnight. Garnish with yoghurt (I always use a goat yoghurt), pumpkin seeds, berries – whatever you like and have available.
CANCELLED: New Year’s Eve get-together – LAST UPDATE 30 December)
I have received too many “maybes”, some for good reason, but most of them … let’s just say that the number of people in Berlin with commitment issues is astonishing … and not enough “yeses” (less than a handful) to constitute a New Year’s Eve get-together :-).
I have therefore made other plans for the next four days, mostly to do with walking outdoors instead of shopping and preparing, not to mention staying awake till midnight and beyond for people who may or may not show up ……
Last edit: It is probably all for the better, not least because I have now been advised to keep my right hand as immobile as possible until the pain, still considerable, and the swelling, gets worse every time I think it is getting better, go away. Which can take months, and longer the more I use the hand. So, thanks again, clueless, incompetent Berlin traffic planners.
Onion bhajis
IN PROGRESS
- 2 large red onions, halved and very finely sliced
- 100 g chickpea flour, aka gram flour
- ½ tsp baking powder
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- Pinch salt, to taste
- 1 tsp garlic powder (which I never have available, so I will use either black fermented garlic or one fresh, crushed garlic clove)
- ½ tsp chili powder
- 90 ml water
- Oil for frying, enough to fry tablespoon-size bhajis
- Mix all the dry ingredients well
- Add water and mix to a thick batter
- Add the onion mixture and mix well till all the onion slices are coated by the batter
- Heat the oil on medium heat in a pan big enough to fry three or four bhajis at a time, turning them till they are crispy and browned. This should take a couple of minutes.
Serve with your favourite chutney and/or raita
Dal Makhani (or as close as I am able to get to it …..)
First posted almost two years ago, this is so delicious it deserves a remake (and perhaps some better photos, and I WILL give that a try, but my pathetic food photography skills have not progressed in the meantime :-)).
- 300 grams whole black lentils (aka urad dal)
- 100 grams kidney beans
- 3 tablespoons ghee, alternatively olive oil or coconut oil
- 2 large red onions, chopped (most recipes probably call for yellow onions but I find those too sweet, so I ever only have red onions available)
- 2 green chilies, chopped
- 15 cloves garlic, crushed or grated
- 1 large knob ginger, grated
- 2 tins tomatoes, pureed with a tablespoon tomato concentrate
- 2 teaspoons cumin seeds
- 5 cloves
- 5 green cardamom, slightly crushed
- 3 black cardamom, slightly crushed
- 2 cinnamon sticks
- 5 Indian bay leaves
- 1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds, ground
- 1 teaspoon, or to taste, red chili powder or cayenne pepper
- 1 teaspoon smoked paprika
- 1 teaspoon grated nutmeg or ground nutmeg powder
- Vegetable stock or water as required
- 4 tablespoons whipping cream (this is optional, if you ask me – I find cream in savoury dishes quite unappetising and I would normally have no use for leftovers, so I leave it out. If I have ghee or goat yoghurt available, I may add a tablespoon or two.
- Salt, as required
- Chopped cilantro for garnish
- Julienned ginger for garnish (optional)
- Cream for garnish (again – optional – if anything, I use some of the goat yoghurt I often have available)
Preparation
- Soak the beans for at least eight hours. Drain and discard the soaking water.
- Cook the beans for one hour. Drain, preserving the cooking water.
- Fry the whole spices in the ghee for a minute till they sputter and become fragrant, then add the onions, sautéing on medium heat till they soften and become light golden.
- Add the ginger-garlic paste and sautée, stirring, then add the chopped green chili.
- Add the pureed tomato and mix well.
- Add the rest of the spices, mix and sautée.
- Add the cooked beans, mix and add stock or water as required.
- Simmer on low heat for at least half an hour, adding water if required.
- If you wish, mash some of the beans in some of their cooking water in order to achieve a creamier texture.
I love Berlin, BUT :-)
IN PROGRESS
Two things Berlin seems incapable of getting right:
One is the traffic. The other one is garbage disposal.
The traffic first. In Berlin, the car is king. Cyclists are second-class citizens, and pedestrians third-class citizens.
Nobody is taught basic traffic rules, and very few observe them, and in any case, nobody is expected to observe them. There is no traffic police, and the staff in the few police cars one sees tootling around do not seem to be there for the traffic.
Bike paths are not respected by neither pedestrians nor cars, and pavements are not respected by anybody. Cars park on bike paths and pavements (even police cars when they stop for coffee); cyclists cycle on pavements, that are now also plagued by e-rollers hurtling along at breakneck speed, terrorising everybody including children and dogs. Still, the police observe and do nothing.
It gets worse: Instead of simply teaching and expecting its precious drivers to keep their much-worshipped cars away from cyclists and bike paths, like in normal countries, Berlin prefers to put up barriers in order to force drivers to stay on the road where they belong. These barriers are getting larger and larger and more and more ugly and are in many places completely dominating, and ruining, the look of the streets of Berlin. As if Berlin needs to look more unattractive than it already does.
Photos illustrating the “beatification” of Berlin thanks to braindead drivers to come.
In Revaler Straße, the barriers between street and bike paths are a little more discreet – a kind of oblong boulders that are slippery as ice – as I learned the hard way, and I am sure I am not the only one, and I would be surprised if they don’t cause accidents among cyclists as well.
But that is of course OK as long as the kings-of-the-road drivers and their beloved, stinky, noisy scrap-heaps are unharmed.
I fell and damaged my face and right hand. Four days later, one side of my face, already badly scratched from the meeting with the asphalt, is turning green and yellow, and my hand likewise. Ligaments in my thumb are so badly damaged that whether or not I have surgery, that hand will never be the same again.
More, including photos, to come.
The other thing is garbage disposal. This country has the most stupid systems in the so-called western world, with doors to garbage rooms and lids to containers very difficult to open. Where I live, people shorter and less strong than me, for example, have real difficulties using them, and half the time, I also have to give up opening the door to our garbage room, and simply leave the garbage bag outside. As if Berlin is not in many ways ugly enough already.
And the containers are never emptied often enough and therefore often overflowing, making Berlin look like a city in a third-world country.
Christmas markets in Berlin 2023
Latest update: 17 September 2024
Each year, I get asked about the many Christmas markets in Berlin, and the choice IS overwhelming.
This is an attempt to put together everything I can find about the various markets – ranging from very traditional and open daily to more specialised and open only on one day or one or more weekends.
This overview should give you a pretty good idea of the logistical nightmare it will be to plan a Christmas market trip to Berlin. Whether you want to stay at my place or not, if you do not know Berlin well, I would be happy to assist with advice on options, taking public transport and other logistics. Just e-mail me here.
I am not a Christmas person so I only used to know one from the inside – because for a couple of seasons I sold UNICEF greeting cards there – reluctantly but for a good cause: the one on Gendarmenmarkt, which was back then in beautiful surroundings. This year, due to construction work on Gendarmenmarkt, it takes place on Bebelplatz, which does not make it much less beautiful, if you like that kind of thing. Oh, and last year I inadvertently found myself at the one in Karlshorst at the end of a nature walk, and found it distinctly unattractive and uninteresting).
Here the list with links and/or the most recent information, mostly ordered by starting date, but with the ones that only take place on one or two days listed first, and ending with all the ones (the majority) which take place from the end of November till, in some cases, around New Year or even into January). I hope that makes sense and that I am not making the confusion even more complete.
*) The ones marked with an asterix at the end of the link are within walking distance from my place. All the others can be reached by public transport.
**) The ones marked with two asterixs before the link are for my own use and mark the ones I plan on visiting. I am setting myself the challenge of taking photographs in places and of motives which I don’t like (i.e. a) Christmas markets, and b)photos with people in them. I know. By the time 24 December comes around, I will have reached the vomit point and want to go to bed and pull a pile of pillows over my head hahahahaha.
And finally, I have grouped them in three: The first group are markets that only take place on one weekend or one or more single dates. The second group are markets that take place on two or more weekends. The third group are markets that open from mid-November onwards and go on till the end of the year or a bit beyond.
ONLY on 25 November:
A piece of Danish Christmas culture. Admission free. 12.00 to 18.00.
ONLY on 25 and 26 November 2023:
VISITED: **)Traditional Finnish*). Admission free. From 12.00 to 18.00.
There was a long queue to get in. Standing in line is one of the favourite pastimes in this country, but I don’t do queues, except this was my only chance to visit this market in my quest to visit as many, and as different, as possible. The wait was surprisingly short, and I was soon to find out why: There was no reason, nor space in which to, linger. Tiny and unpleasantly cramped, people left again quickly.
Qweer Xmas Market (that IS how they spell it)
ONLY on 26 November 2023:
TRIED TO VISIT: **)Kimonos, sake and sushi. Japanese culture in Kreuzberg*). Admission 13,50 euro. From 12.00 to 19.00.
Unbelievably, the queue was almost 400 m long, according to google. With that number of visitors, why not make it a two-day event? I know – because people in this country LOOOVE queueing and crowds. Seriously, it is when they are standing in a line that is barely moving that they seem their happiest and most content. Even on a relatively cold day like today.
Just look at the way concert halls (except the Philharmonic and Pierre Boulez Saal), operas and theatres make people stand and wait, like sardines in a tin, till about five minutes before a performance starts. Why? Because it puts the audience in a good mood. ??? Go figure. Personally, I am usually fuming and ready to go home by the time they finally let the audience in.
Anyway, I decided that since this one was in-doors, and seeing the number of people going in, it was a true superspreader, and since I had taken a walk around Stralau Peninsula on my way there, so the day was not completely wasted, I decided to give up and go home. Next year – an on-line ticket in advance. Perhaps.
Natural and unprocessed at Ökowerk. Admission free. From 11.00 to 15.30.
ONLY on 1 to 3 December:
“Small but stylish” (Swedish). Admission 2 euro. Friday 16.00 to 20.00, Saturday 12.00 to 19.00, Sunday 12.00-18.00 (Check first – there is some confusion about all the Scandinavian markets).
“Helle Mitte” (nothing to do with me ….) in Hellersdorf. Admission free. Fr. 14-22 Uhr / Sa. 12-22 Uhr / So. 12-20 Uhr.
In Potsdam: Minsk Winter Market.
ONLY on 2 December:
VISITED**): Advent Bazar Pankow. In a garden by a historic palace. Admission free. 12.00-18.00.
I thought this would have some sort of an attractive backdrop, at least – there is mention of a palace in the description, but there was no sign of that anywhere. This market is only interesting if you are in some way involved or affiliated with the Kaspar Hauser Foundation. For me, it was a wasted trip.
MEANT TO VISIT**)Refugee support at Refugio. From 12.00 to 20.00. Mulled wine, waffles, soup, coffee, arts and crafts.
Despite the fact that it was indoors, I wanted to visit, but heard it was crowded like a true superspreader (which surprised me since they did not make it public on social media till 1 December – i.e. the day before – silly, and to me beyond unprofessional), and never on their website – I only knew because a friend of mine volunteers there), so I gave up going.
At the church in Oberschöneweide. I should have gone to this one instead of planning on the above two markets. Hopefully next year.
ONLY on 2 and 3 December:
Cosy neighbourhood atmosphere in Alt-Buckow. Admission free. Saturday 10.00 to 20.00, Sunday 11.00-19.00.
Christmas market for dogs and their humans. (Why am I not surprised?) Admission: expected €2.50 (1 Euro will be given as a food donation to the Tiertafel Berlin animal food bank). From 10.00 to 18.00.
Holy Shit Shopping (that IS what it is called): https://www.holyshitshopping.de/. Admission 8 euro. From 12.00 to 19.00.
ONLY on 3 December:
Church choir and handmade gifts in Lübars. Admission free. From 12 noon.
Long-standing tradition on the outskirts of Berlin. Lichtenrade. Admission free. From 13.00 to 19.00.
Around the Grunewald Church. Admission free. From 12.30 to 18.00.
Small but fine in the medieval village of Alt-Marzahn. Admission free. Opening hours not yet known.
Evang. Johannesstift, Zehlendorf
ONLY on 3 and 10 December:
“Potters, painters, arts and crafts, fashion and jewellery designers”. Artisan advent. Admission free. From 10.00 to 18.00.
Strausberg ONLY on 8 December 13.00-19.00. Not in Berlin, but I will attempt to visit this one before the one at the Foreign Ministry.
ONLY on 8 and 9 December (correct: Friday and Saturday):
VISITED*)From all over the world at the Foreign Office.*) Admission free. Friday, 8 December from 15.00-18.00; Saturday, 9 December 12.00-18.00.
“In the cosy atmosphere of the Christmas-lit atrium of the Federal Foreign Office, you can browse for beautiful and unique gift ideas from all continents. It is not Christmas decorations or the products of local artisans that are sold here, but beautiful and curious things that diplomatic life abroad has to offer. The diplomats of the Federal Foreign Office donate unusual and extraordinary, new and old, trivial and rare, kitschy and beautiful objects from all over the world, such as pictures, vases, jewellery and textiles. However, not only the souvenirs from all over the world are for sale at the bazaar, but also gifts that the Federal Foreign Minister or the staff of the Federal Foreign Office have received in the past.”
ONLY on 8 to 10 December:
“Berlin’s most romantic Christmas market.” Admission free. Friday 17.00 to 21.00, Saturday 14.00 to 21.00, Sunday 14.00 to 20.00. I did not visit this time around but seem to remember from some years ago, that there is a lot of home-crocheted stuff.
Italian Christmas market.*) Streetfood and more with a view of the Molecule Men. Admission: 4 euro. Friday 18.00-22.00 with opening party from 22.00, Saturday 11.00-22.00, Sunday 11.00-21.00.
ONLY on 9 December:
“A very British Christmas” at St. George’s Church. Admission free. 14.00 to 18.00.
VISITED: **)Neighbourly market at the very east of Berlin (Alt-Kaulsdorf). Some call this the coziest and most “must-do” Christmas market in Berlin. Admission free. 13.00 to 19.00.
Neighbourly and cozy indeed. Many stalls lining the streets surrounding the church. Uncomfortably crowded.
Norwegian Christmas market. Admission free. From 11.00-20.00.
ONLY on 9 and 10 December:
At a harness racing track. (Karlshorst – I would not bother)
Museumspark Rüdersdorf. Admission free. 9 Dec. 13.00-20.00. 10 Dec. 13.00-18.00.
**)Arts and crafts, sausages and mulled wine, in Frohnau. Admission free. 11.00-18.00.
**)On the banks of the Havel River: Christkindlmarkt Kladow, 9 and 10 December 12.00-19.00, Admission free. Imchenplatz, 14089 Berlin
Fairytale Christmas market at the oldest surviving castle in Berlin. Admission 3,50 euro, includes castle tour. From 11.00 to 19.00.
Kunstadvent in Berlin-Friedrichshagen. Admission free. 13.00-18.00
“Typically Berlin Atmosphere at Bröhan”. Admission free. Sat 14.00-20.00, Sun 12 noon to 18.00.
VISITED: Indoors in Oberschöneweide. Admission free. Sat 12.00-20.00, Sun 12.00-18.00.
Underwhelmed. Again.
ONLY on 10 December:
Alt-Glienicke “Contemplative” Advent market. Admission free. 14.00 to 19.00.
Along the Landwehrkanal*). Nowkoelln X-mas flow. Admission free. 10.00 to 16.30.
ONLY on 10 and 17 December:
Indoors in Markthalle IX. Admission free. 11.00 to 18.00.
ONLY on 8-10 and 15-17 December:
VISITED: **)A village church and a farm in the very south of Berlin. Admission free. Friday 14.00 to 20.00; Sat and Sun 14.00 to 20.00.
Probably interesting for the locals.
ONLY on 15 to 17 December:
VISITED: **)Atmospheric ambience in Köpenick. Admission free. Fri 14.00-22.00, Sat 12.00-22.00, Sun 12.00-20.00.
Definitely one of the better ones, clearly with the occasional entertainment, but very crowded.
**)Alternative and unique gifts in Friedrichshagen. Admission free. Check opening hours for Friday – not yet mentioned. Saturday from 10.00 to 22.00, Sunday from 10.00 to 20.00.
ONLY on 16 December:
**)Dicke Linda Christmas Market at Kranoldplatz. Admission free. 10.00-18.00.
**)Covered Christmas stroll at Kranoldplatz. Admission free. 15.00 to 19.00.
ONLY 16 and 17 December:
**)A falconry show and Jochen the talking elephant in Westend. Admission free. 12.00 to 21.00.
Arts, crafts and delicacies in the very south of Berlin. Admission free. Sat 12.00 to 22.00, Sun 11.00-20.00.
VISITED: Bölschestraße in Friedrichshagen. Very small market with some quite interesting street food.
First, a detour to Müggelsee and an unexpected, surprise spectacle. There were many of them, and they all magically disappeared when a police car came sneaking round the corner:
ONLY on 17 December:
ONLY on 22 and 23 December:
**************************************
First two Advent weekends – i.e. 2-3 and 9-10 December:
VISITED: **)Magical atmosphere at Naturpark Südgelände. The usual admission fee of one euro to the park. Saturday from 15.00 to 19.00, Sunday from 12.00 to 18.00.
Calling it agical might be pushing it a bit. Small and cozy, child friendly, outdoors, for me interesting because I like the park and took a walk around it for some birdwatching before checking out the stalls.
Pride winter market in a former women’s prison, with art works by LGBTQ artists. Admission free. 15.00-20.00.
Second and third Advent weekends – i.e. 9-10 and 16-17 December:
Unconventional in a cool location in Prenzlauerberg. Admission 7 euros. From 12.00 to 20.00.
First three Sundays in Advent – i.e. 3, 10 and 17 December:
Artisan at Mexicoplatz. Free admission. 11.00-18.00.
Weddingmarkt – Christmas Edition.
First three Sundays in Advent, i.e. 3, 10 and 17 December plus 23 December:
**)Sustainable consumption at Kollwitzplatz eco market.
First three Advent weekends, i.e. 2-3, 9-10, and 16-17 December:
Advent market at Domäne Dahlem.
In 2024 also on the first three advent weekends: “One of Berlin’s prettiest Christmas markets”, in Baumschule. Admission 8 euro (see website for comprehensive entertainment programme). From 11.00 to 20.00.
Nordic Fairytale Christmas. Friday 14.00 to 21.00, Sat and Sun 11.00 to 21.00.
VISITED:**)Environmental market in the historic city centre.*) Admission free. Saturday 12.00 to 20.00, Sunday 11.00 to 19.00.
Nice, not too crowded, with stalls along the entire length of Sophienstraße, selling a better quality of wares than the sometimes strange rubbish in some other Christmas markets. Not all of it bio- og ecological, though, and not a lot to eat and drink then and there and nowhere to sit.
Took a photo of the nearby iconic statue on the way there, and on the way home swung by Oranienplatz with a candlelight vigil on the occasion of human rights day.
VISITED: **)“On the beach”. Orankelichter and cultural show. Admission 3 euro plus see website for admission to some of the shows. Friday 17.00-21.00, Sat and Sun 14.00 to 21.00.
Very atmospheric, by a lake, and unlike the idiotic one in Lübars, there is a full view of the lake and good use being made of the proximity. Lots of nice streetfood, pleasantly well visited without being crowded.
All Advent weekends, i.e. 2-3, 9-10, 16-17, plus 22 and 23 December as well as 25 and 26 December:
VISITED: Curling, winter games, Christmas brunch and much more, at the “Lido”.
Small but cozy and idyllically located on a “beach”. A curling rink, and plenty to eat and drink, and space to sit, but if you are looking for Christmas presents or anything else, this is not the market for you.
NOTE: The vegan Christmas market which was reputed to take place on Winterfeldplatz on all Advent weekends did not take place at all despite what the websites officially listing many of this years’s markets claimed. This means that this year, there was no vegan Christmas market in Berlin. Surprising and disappointing.
************************************
From 28 October to 1 January:
**)Winter world on Potsdamer Platz. *) One ride at a cost yet unconfirmed, otherwise admission free. From 11.00 to 22.00. Note that the Christmas market opens on 27 November, see further below.
From 3 November to 30 December:
VISITED – photos below and in a separate post: **)Adventure and thrills in Landsberger Allee. Admission free. Monday to Thursday 14.00 to 21.30; Friday and Saturday 13.00 to 23.00, Sunday and public holidays 12.00 to 21.00.
I visited this market because it opened at little earlier than all the others and because I was signed up for a bird-watching walk in nearby Fennphulpark, so took the opportunity since I was in the area.
A third reason for visiting at this time was that this one is part Christmas market as we know them, and part joyride inferno, and I had a photography course assignment to do with camera movements, so I thought the joyrides would provide some good motives, and they did not disappoint.
This market is a real treat for children. I visited on a Saturday afternoon, and by the time I left a little after 16.00 hrs, it was completely packed, and hordes still arriving.
Below are a couple of “normal” Christmas market photos and a couple of the whacky ones. The rest of the many photos I took will be available in two separate posts: the shortlist for the assignment, and more photos from the visit to this market.
From 4 November 2023 (?) to ……?
VISITED: **)Lighting concepts by the river.*) Admission free. Wednesday to Sunday from 16.00.
The smallest little Christmas market I have ever seen, further dwarfed by the Merzedes-Benz Arena and other surrounding buildings. The “lighting concept” just means that, as darkness falls, the trees are illuminated by green and red spots. That happens a lot here, most notably in the Botanical Garden Christmas show. Not a look that appeals to me personally.
I did not linger, although the food and drink on offer in the very few stands looked good.
However, I did take some of those whacky ICM photos, this time of some christmaslight-laden trees next to the market:
From 10 November to 23 December:
LGBTQIA Winterdays and Christmas Avenue. Admission free. Winterdays 10 to 25 November, Christmas Avenue 27 November to 23 December. Monday to Thursday from 16.00 to 22.00, Friday to Sunday from 15.00 to 22.00.
Passed by the Christmas Avenue underneath the U-Bahn Nollendorfplatz:
From 15 November to 14 January:
**An ice rink and 30 light installations: Christmas in Tierpark.
NOTE: at the time of writing, tickets have to be bought (15,50 euro!!!) from a provider not the Tierpark, and you have to register with all your info in a rather lengthy and cumbersome registration process, at the end of which you are told that there are no tickets available.
I do know from a pre-pandemic visit that, with just a few scattered stalls, this one definitely focuses on the lightshows, a bit like in the Botanical Garden.
Tierpark Berlin is my favourite zoo in the whole world, and if a visit during daylight could be combined with a walk through the Christmas displays after dark, I would consider it, but daytime-Tierpark closes an hour before the Christmas walkabout opens, and that does not make a whole lot of sense to me.
From 15 November 2023 to 25 February 2024:
From 16 November to 22 December:
VISITED: **A medieval village. Admission Monday and Tuesday free, Wednesday – Sunday €3, reduced (children from 6-16 years & those in historical costumes) €1, for children under 6 years admission is free of charge. Monday to Friday 15.00 to 22.00, Sat and Sun 12.00 to 22.00.
On that morning, some clouds presented a nice change from the solidly grey sky of the last few days:
From 16 November to 7 January:
Strictly speaking not a Christmas market, but reportedly spectacular: “Dark Matter – Winterlights”. Also described here in TipBerlin.
A solo exhibition by artist/designer Christopher Bauder who also designed the “Lichtgrenze” eight years ago. That gives me hope that Dark Matter is a bit more tasteful than some of the other light shows on view this time of year.
From 17 November to 1 January 2024:
VISITED: Family wonderland near Spandau’s old town.
From another site: “The largest Christmas market in Berlin takes place in the charming Old Town of Spandau. There are more than 250 stalls during the weekdays and over 400 on the weekends. Thousands of twinkling lights create a festive and joyful atmosphere. And at the heart of the market, you’ll find a large fir tree and a nativity scene with live animals.”
From 17 November to 14 January:
“A sparkling winter wonderland” in the Botanical Garden. See website for admission fees and opening hours.
I visited some years ago. A lot of to me ugly colours. Not my thing.
From 20 November to 23 December:
**)All-inclusive next to an iconic bridge over the River Spree*). Note high admission fee and online tickets with much included in the way of drinks and food. At the Spreespeicher at Oberbaumbrücke.
From 20 November to 1 January:
VISITED: **)In Nikolaiviertel *) “Feuerzangenbowle” – I am not entirely sure what this is about, but a movie was being shown – seems like some kind of obscure tradition.
From 23 November to 23 December:
VISITED: Alternative by the Spree (Holzmarkt)*) Admission free except Saturday and Sunday from 16.00 hrs: 2 euro. Open Friday from 16.00, Saturday and Sunday from 14.00.
Holzmarkt is always a nice place to visit, there, right by the river. And no sign of Thüringer Bratwurst – a redeeming feature.
The pedestrian zone in Wilmersdorf. Admission free. See website for opening hours.
From 27 November to 22 December:
A piece of Scandinavia in Berlin. Admission free. Mo-Fri 15.00 to 22.00, Sat and Sun 13.00 to 22.00.
From 27 November to 23 December:
VISITED: “Largest Christmas market in Berlin”: In “the entire old town of Spandau” (one of two Christmas markets in Spandau!). Disappointment: There will be NO Christmas market or “Christmas lights” at the Spandau Citadel this year.
From Tagesspiegel: “Die Weihnachtsmarktsaison beginnt. Los geht’s wie immer am Tag nach Totensonntag, also am Montag. 27. November. Nach drei Corona-Wintern kehrt der Weihnachtsmarkt um Sven-Uwe Dettmann komplett aus der Zitadelle in die Altstadt zurück (11-20 Uhr, Freitag und Sonnabend bis 22 Uhr). Auf dem Marktplatz steht eine große Pyramide, mehr als 100 Stände sind in den Gassen aufgebaut. An der Kirche St. Nikolai findet wieder der mittelalterliche Teil des Weihnachtsmarktes seinen Platz.”
Some call it the largest Christmas market. I call it stalls lining the main streets in the oldest part of Spandau.
From 27 November to 26 December:
VISITED: “On Alexanderplatz, just as diverse as Berlin itself.*)
Actually a very traditional, nothing special, Christmas market, which seems wasted since the one in front of the city hall, just on the other side of the station, a few hundred meters away, is nicer, has more visitors and more space.
Winter world and Christmas Market on Potsdamer Platz*). Admission free. From 10.00 to 22.00.
Easily visited on your way from A to B or around Berlin.
From 27 November to 7 January:
VISITED: Christmas in front of the city hall next to Alexanderplatz and the TV Tower.*) “For nostalgia seekers, funfair lovers and ice-skating junkies”.
Admission free. Mon-Fri 12.00-22.00, Sat-Sun 11.00-22.00, closed 24 December. 25 and 26 December from 11.00-21.00. 31 December 11.00-20.00.
I quite liked this one. Spacious, a good variety of stalls, and a skating rink that people were actually using.
VISITED: **) Stalls and an environment-friendly ice rink in Zehlendorf. Admission free (except to skate on the ice rink euro 2,50 per day). Sun-Thurs 11.00-21.00, Fri-Sat 11.00-22.00.
Nice little market very near the S-Bahn station.
From 27 November to 31 December:
VISITED:**)Feel like royalty at Charlottenburg Palace – a major attraction at Christmas time. NOTE: Here also a review from “Europe’s Best Destinations”. Admission free. Daily 12.00 to 22.00.
This Christmas market, and its backdrop, is so pretty it is almost puke-worthy. If that is your thing, and you are ever only going to visit one Christmas market in Berlin, this should probably be the one. With strong competition from one or two others.
VISITED:**) Eco-friendly curling rink and heated seating niches at Friedrichstraße Station. *) Admission free, including the use of the curling rink.
Still not visited – just passed by:**)Gendarmenmarkt, temporarily relocated to Bebelplatz.*) Admission 2 euro (under 12 free). Sun to Thurs 12.00 to 22.00, Fri to Sat 12.00 to 23.00. 24 Dec 12.00 to 18.00. 31 Dec 12.00 to 14.00.
NOW I have visited this one, on 25 December when I thought everybody was fed up with Christmas, since it has been going on since mid- to end November, but it was packed with people, and there were queues to get in.
If you want a choice of things you might actually want to buy, and – not least – a selection of indoor establishments in which to have a proper meal, this is the one for you.
From 27 November to 7 January:
VISITED: 170 historic stands at the most iconic church. Admission free. Sunday to Thursday 11.00 to 21.00, Friday and Saturday 11.00-22.00, Christmas Eve 11.00-14.00, Christmas Day 13.00 to 21.00, 31 December 11.00 to 20.00, 1 January 13.00 to 21.00.
This is the Christmas market that was attacked on 19 December 2016 by that psychopath who drove a truck into the crowds, killing 12 people and leaving over 50 people injured.
The memorial looks like this:
From 30 November to 23 December:
VISITED: **)Strandbad Lübars. Admission free. Thur 15-21, Fri 13-23, Sat 12-23, Sun 11-21.
When your biggest asset is the location right on the shore of a lake, but you block the view with an ugly fence – how idiotic is that?
Still, I made a nice day out of this visit, with lunch in Restaurant am Strandbad and a walk up and down Eichwerder Steg first. Even saw some birds.
Actually, the Lübars Christmas market does have one redeeming feature: a really nice cheese stall, which for some reason, I forgot to photograph. It is also a bit far to go just to buy cheese.
From 1 to 23 December:
Christmas stroll, curling, BBQ, cocktails and more with a great view (Deck 5, Schönhauser Allee Arkaden)*). Admission free. Thursday to Saturday from 16.00 to 22.00.
VISITED: Young African Art Christmas Market (YAAM) and ice skating.
Ice Skating: 01.12. – 23.12.23: 15 – 22 h. Xmas Market
01.12. – 03.12.23; 07.12. – 10.12.23 ; 14.12. – 17.12.23; and 21.12. – 23.12.23: 15.00-22.00.
An empty skating rink, but lots of interesting street food, which always makes a nice change.
From 1 December to 7 January:
VISITED: **)A new Christmas market centrally in the heart of Berlin – (Wintermarket on Schloßplatz).*) Admission free. Daily from 11.00 to 22.00.
A nice addition with lots of space to sit and eat and drink, with a view to the Dom and the TV Tower, and the relatively new Humboldtforum as a backdrop. There are also some stalls in the courtyard.
NOT IN BERLIN, BUT CAN BE REACHED ON A DAYTRIP:
There are 59 of them, so I will not list all of them here – only the ones I am thinking of visiting. The entire list is here: https://www.deutsche-weihnachtsmaerkte.de/weihnachtsmarkt/in/brandenburg/.
Königs Wusterhausen date not yet set
2 December to 1 January: Warnemünde
27 November to 22 December: Rostock
27 November to 27 December: Cottbus. From 11.00-19.00
27 November to 30 December: Schwerin
VISITED: **)1 to 10 December: Eberswalde opening day 18.00 to 21.00, the rest 10.00-20.00
Been there, done that. Dropped into Eberswalde Zoo first, since I was in the area. Much more snow there than in Berlin. A true winter wonderland.
7 to 10 December: Angermünde (Daily 12.00-20.00). Perhaps next year.
VISITED: **)14 to 17 December: Stendal. I visited on 17 December with Empor Berlin – Eckehard Heiber organised a historical city walk which included the visit to the Stendal Christmas Market.
Below are impressions from the Christmas Market. Other impressions from Stendal are here.
