The weather in Berlin

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The morning after my return, I woke up to a more than usually thick fog.

On my way home

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These four weeks have gone by in a flash.

Random thoughts on pros and cons, in no particular order:

Goodbye wide, open spaces – hallo densely populated Berlin with way too many cars – but with about 180 nationalities, and an ample supply of lakes and forests within easy reach.

Goodbye Wadden Sea,  an almost garbage- and litter-free World Heritage site. Hallo Berlin, giant pigsty.

Goodbye bracing North Sea air – hallo Berliner Luft.

Goodbye to saying moin, moi-iin, moin-moin (just like in the part of southern Denmark my mother was from), constantly the minute I leave my room. Hallo to a few long-standing neighbours who always say Guten Tag, and to quite a few newcomers, young people, who would not dream of ever acknowledging anybody else’s existence in any way.

Goodbye Corona-dictated rules and regulations – daily Covid tests, having to wear a mask at all times outside one’s own room, even while exercising, and restrictive mealtimes and annoying, albeit necessary, seating arrangements. Hallo to the other extreme – Berlin, where everybody acts like retards as if Corona never was.

Goodbye fresh fish- and seafood dishes to die (in those restaurants that are still open ….) . Hallo spicy food, restaurants from a hundred countries, and probably one of the best places in the world for vegetarian and vegan food. AND hallo to my own kitchen – and garlic, ginger and co. (normally a must for me for at least one meal a day) and the general access to healthy and tasty food. I can’t remember ever having been away from all that for more than a week or max. ten days.

Goodbye cocoon where all exercise facilities are under one roof, with a daily programme determined for you, and where you can walk around in gym clothes or a bathrobe. And where nobody cares how many breasts you have, if any at all. Hallo Berlin where fitness centres are still – to me – off limits, but where – it  has to be said – when it comes to dress code and appropriate number of breasts – it is a little bit like that there too.

Goodbye aquafitness, fitness room workouts and gymnastics (“Rückenschule”) – I shall miss you all, just as much as the Marnitz therapy sessions, not to mention the walks in surrounding nature right on the doorstep. It has all done wonders for my strength and mobility. Hallo trying to find the discipline to get as much exercise – both quantitatively and qualitatively on my own initiative, even with Gabi Fastner on youtube. Walks will most likely not be a problem. I am in several walking groups, including Berliner Wanderclub, and I also like walking by myself. I have still to decide whether those walks will be with or without camera. The biggest problem will be the absence of fitness machines close by. I am not ready to go to fitness centres in Berlin – and not only because of Corona and whichever pandemics bound to follow hot on its heels. I am thinking of buying a rowing machine, and of having to go all the way to Weißensee (which is the only place I have so far been able to find physiotherapists who work with the Marnitz method) twice a week.

Goodbye blissfully dark and quiet nights. Hallo …. well …. the European equivalent of the city that never sleeps.

And perhaps also goodbye to a time where “The Big C” has been prevalent, and hallo to “it” taking more of a back seat. Here, although the place does not look like a hospital or clinic, even indoors, “it” is present everywhere, and especially the number of young people here will be forever on my retina. There is not always an answer to why some people are affected by cancer (and why others are not) but if one has to look for some logic, one could probably say that I have paid for a lifetime of overindulgence, and decades of physical inactivity. But the women in her twenties diagnosed with breast cancer – and that number seems to be rising – … what have they done?

Goodbye three meals a day prepared by someone else (at noon a choice of no less than three cooked dishes every day). Hallo food shopping and cooking (healthier meals, especially in the carb department) and hallo again intermittent fasting 16:8 (for three reasons: 1) it makes losing weight and maintaining the ideal weight much easier, and 2) it makes it easier to plan the day when it only has to be broken up by two meals, and not least 3) it is part of a by now recognised strategy to avoid recurrence of hormone-positive cancer. Although the food at the clinic is good, well prepared, varied, and nicely presented, it is not conducive to weightloss or even -maintenance, but more to fattening people up, for example loaded with (mostly the wrong) carbohydrates. (A bit strange since I did not see anybody who needed fattening up in my four weeks there). And knowing to what extent sugar is like fertiliser for cancer, I was surprised to see a dessert on the buffet every day. Many people find it difficult to not eat dessert when it is right in front of them, so I would have thought it would be better to perhaps only offer desserts on weekends.

Goodbye (for me, after a while) challenging mealtimes. I am not used to having people stare at me and comment on my every move. Hallo morning coffee in peace and quiet with no expectation of constant, boring chitchat.

Gastronomy in Sankt Peter-Ording in winter

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I tried the following which were still open in November so are presumably open all winter. They are all within walking distance from the clinic so no need to depend on the very limited bus service (which also stops absurdly early – in winter even before dinner time (???)). Apparently, there is also a clinic shuttle, but I never felt the need to investigate its usefulness.

If, like me, you are only going to eat cake once during your stay, let it be here: Café Deicheck (if you are going to eat cake, it has to be worth the sugar content ….). Their homemade cakes all look gorgeous, and I know by experience that they have great coffeeand a good selection of teas as well.

Another good café is Bäckerei Siercks. And of course there is a café in the clinic too. I did not try their cakes either, but they looked good and homemade.

Vietnamese (I think ….) restaurant Asia Mei, not as spicy as one would hope, but still the tastiest food on the peninsula. I went there several times, and remembered it well from when I was here on a photography course five years ago. Th’ey don’t have a website but are located on the square just by the boardwalk leading to the main beach.

There are several Italian restaurants, but I only tried one: Buongiorno, very close to the clinic. I did not try any of the meat dishes but their fish- and seafood dishes were very good.

SPO Fischhaus – tried their “Fischbrötchen” several times, and their pasta with giant shrimp once – very good.

If you are after “Fischbrötchen” there is also the “Räucherei” next to Rewe supermarket by Bahnhof Süd.

Tamatsu – for if you want to to really treat yourself. Had my 70th birthday dinner there. Modern food with more than a little Asian flair. Delicious.

And finally, GOSH, just by the boardwalk to the main beach. An institution in Sankt Peter-Ording – I have by now eaten there many times. Cozy atmosphere, an outdoor area, Fischbrötchen to be bought outside and various fish- and seafood dishes to be ordered inside. A bar for coffee and drinks.

Beware of gastronomy in more far-off places. Many of them are closed, although in true German IT-resistant fashion, they don’t bother to mention that fact on their website. For example, at the Eidersperrwerk, there are two eateries which both have left giant signs up pointing towards them, they both pretend on their website to be open, but they are not.

My last Sunday in Eiderstedt ….,

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….. and my fascination for the Wattenmeer has not diminished.

Total distance walked on this day: 22 km.

I could not leave without having paid a visit to our nextdoor neigbours …

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… in winter only open on weekends: Westküstenpark & Robbarium

The beach never looks the same two days in a row

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Weather vastly improved, so off to the beach again for the afternoon.

The tide sometimes creates all sorts of patterns, different ones within a relatively small area.

Total distance walked: 15 km.

If you like Sankt Peter-Ording in weather like this …..

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87 km per hour winds, and rain most of the time – the kind of weather which, according to the lady who came to clean my room, the locals call “stay-in-bed weather”.

Still, after a morning of exercises, and waiting a little while for the winds to subside, I ventured out, initially just to visit Kunsthaus Sankt Peter-Ording, currently with an exhibition of works by Armin Müller Stahl – one of my favourite German actors, so a man of several talents – in addition to their permanent collection (photo).

After that I kept walking, took time to study the shops along the way (bought a piece of clothing I had earlier sworn I did not need), and got as far as the bordwalk to the main beach. By the way, just where the boardwalk starts is an institution, I think, in Sankt Peter-Ording, GOSH frequented by locals, semi-locals, semi-tourist and tourists alike, all year round.

On the way back, I stopped for dinner in https://www.spo-fischhaus.de/ and had a delicious pasta with a load of giant shrimp and a hint of chili. I had previously tried a couple of their Fischbrötchen, and they were equally good.

Total distance walked: 13,5 km – not too bad for a (weather-wise) “stay-in-bed” day.

An afternoon in Tönning

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More information on Tönning here.

I visited the Multimar Wattforum – a great place to learn more about the Wadden Sea.

Here is where I was. Total number of km walked that day: 12,

A slightly unsettling experience on the way back: The train that normally runs between Sankt Peter-Ording via Tönning to Husum is on weekdays replaced by Deutsche Bahn buses due to rail maintenance.

As I boarded the bus back from Tönning to Sankt Peter-Ording, the driver asked me where he should go from there. It turned out that he had not driven that route before – in fact had never been to the region – and therefore also did not know where he was supposed to stop to let people off and, more importantly, pick people up (at stops with no shelter, nowhere to sit, and an hour between buses …..). In addition, it was of course pitch dark by this time. And the bus was not equipped with a GPS (!!). Well done. Deutsche Bahn, for sending a driver out into, for him, completely uncharted territory.

WEEKEND!

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No tortuous Rückenschule or gruelling aquafitness or whatever other workouts are on the programme during the week. Just kidding – I am enjoying all of it. But it is still nice that there is a difference between weekdays and weekends.

Time to move further afield, a change of scenery, perhaps a nice dinner somewhere …

After a misty morning, the day only got mistier, but nevertheless I spent time on the main beach in Bad SPO, made a decision to try to include people in my photographs – something I usually try to avoid. Came across an eccentric poser. I also visited Germany’s largest coastal-protection structure, found a lovely café in an unlikely place, and it was actually open!

I am finding it very frustrating how cafés and restaurants close for the winter without announcing it in any way, and they even leave the signposts pointing their way up all winter. And the German IT resistance again. Some places don’t even have a website, and those who do, can’t be bothered to update it with such silly, irrelevant bits of information like the fact they are closed for the next six months.

So after 17 km, and another eight to go on an almost empty stomach, and no other options around, I finally gave in and had one of the gorgeous cakes of which there are so many in this region.

Total distances walked: Saturday 17 km; Sunday 25 km -a post-surgery record for me. Sunday’s route on Mapmywalk here.

A poser …..

Another poser ……

Giving humans a MUCH more prominent position:

Back to nature only:

In terms of plans for the future

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I am dithering between wanting “The Big C” to take more of a back seat for me when I go home (except for the lifestyle-related anti-recurrence and anti-boneloss strategies, of course), or starting some sort of support system for young women with young children diagnosed with breast cancer, or any kind of cancer, for that matter, but breast cancer is what I hear about these days.

It seems to affect more and more young women, and even more and more women while they are pregnant. I have mentioned this before, but I find it mind-boggling. They then have the labour induced in week 36 so that they can start chemo as soon as possible (and chemo, by all accounts) is beyond awful, but my thoughts on that is for a future post). A newborn baby, perhaps a toddler at home, and crippling chemo (and of course therefore no breastfeeding). In what was supposed to be the best years of their life.

I simply can’t imagine how they cope and what that does to a young family.

IN PROGRESS

The life of a Danish pensioner in Berlin