Photography: Personal favourites 2024 June

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Weimar and Buchenwald 3-5 July

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Main purpose: to get away from Cresco’s infinity project next door, with its incessant noise which has now ruined every summer for us since about 2018. And now I don’t think Victoriahöfe, or Victoria zu Berlin as they now pompously call it, will ever be finished. Nobody seems interested in ever finishing it. Then rather continue to make life an eternal misery for everyone living in the area. As if the fact that it is one of the ugliest buildings in world is not enough to ruin the day for everyone looking at it.

Secondary purpose, to visit this exhibition in three parts:

“Together, the three parts of “Bauhaus and National Socialism” present a new, often uncomfortable history of the Bauhaus and its legacies. For, long after 1945, the illusion of modernism—and the Bauhaus with it—as uniquely “good” and “persecuted” persisted. As the fates of many Bauhaus members show, an innovative artistic attitude alone does not protect against the seductions of fascism. Therefore the role of art in a liberal and cosmopolitan society is a question that animates the exhibition in all three of its venues.”

But upon arrival in Weimar, I started with a visit to the Buchenwald Memorial.

I have lost count of the number of people who have asked me why I “keep visiting those places”. First of all, since the fall of the wall (1989), I have now visited a breathtaking total of three concentration camps: Ravensbrück, which can be visited on a daytrip from Berlin, Sachsenhausen, likewise, as part of a walk with Empor Berlin, and now Buchenwald, since I was visiting Weimar anyway. Hardly a matter of “keep visiting”.

I always ignore the question, since I do not feel that I have to justify anything to anybody, but if I were to, one of my reasons would be that “those places” are a significant part of the very recent history of the part of the world in which I have always lived and worked, and the country, in which I was a frequent tourist for many years, and where I have chosen to live since 2016.

Since I do not wish to hear their answers, I never ask people to justify them trying to pretend that that chapter never happened. It is a bit like with anti-vaxxers – I really do not want to hear what they have to say on the subject.

I do know that some of them would say that a visit would depress them. Oh dear. Or that it would make them feel queasy. Well, boohoo. Scarred for life then, are we? Newsflash: It is not about you.

Anyway, a strange thing happened this morning when I was trying to find the bus from Weimar to Buchenwald: The bus station in Weimar is being renovated, stops relocated, and the place is confusing, so:

Me, to a friendly-faced lady, around my age, perhaps a little older: Do you know this area well?

Her: Lived here all my life.

Me: Would this be the right direction to the Buchenwald Memorial?

Her, looking a little puzzled: Is that near here?

Me, feeling more than a little puzzled: Apparently a twenty-minute bus ride away.

Her: But surely, the bus stop would not actually be called THAT?

True story. Talk about being in denial.

PS: Actually it is (called THAT).

The mind boggles. But anyway, here are some photos. What always strikes me during my “many” visits to “those places” is the idyllic surroundings.

Day two and three:

On the way to the first museum, a name which is familiar in Berlin, too:

Museum Neues Weimar

The Bauhaus as a Site of Political Contest, 1919-1933, illuminates artistic and political conflicts at the Bauhaus. These began with the founding of the art and design school in Weimar and continued unabated when the Bauhaus moved to Dessau and Berlin.”

Bauhaus Museum

Removed – Confiscated – Assimilated, 1930/1937, focuses on the “Degenerate Art” confiscations in 1937 and the campaign that preceded it in Weimar. As early as 1930, authorities had ordered the removal of over 70 works by artists such as Lyonel Feininger and Paul Klee from the Weimar Castle Museum. In 1937, more than 450 works were confiscated – a cultural loss to Weimar’s collections that is still felt today.”

Bonus tip: a nice café inside the museum (downstairs), and a good Vietnamese restaurant on the corner of the same square.

Schiller-Museum 

“The core of the exhibition deals with Bauhaus members “Living in the Dictatorship, 1933-1945″. It addresses the balancing acts they performed in the face of the new political circumstances after 1933. Many Bauhäusler had few choices; under an anti-leftist and racist regime, they lost their jobs and were forced into exile. At least twenty-one Bauhaus students perished in ghettos and concentration camps. However, the majority were not targets of the Nazi regime. In fact, they participated in propaganda exhibitions and design fairs, and they designed film posters, furniture, household goods, and even busts of Hitler.”

This, for me, was the most interesting of the three Bauhaus/Nazi-related exhibitions. However, the other two museums were interesting because of their other content and so should not be missed in this context.

Random photos from walking between museums and around Weimar:

Can anyone explain?

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Here is another phenomenon I don’t understand – perhaps someone can explain: If occupants of an apartment building have been plagued by noise and other nuisances from a construction site for years (and in my case the size of my balcony was halved for a couple of years, at the height of the pandemic when it would have been really nice to have the full use of my balcony), then those owners who are renting out their flats while living somewhere else will get compensation, so that they can (choose to) compensate their tenants, but the owners who live in the flats themselves will not be compensated. Is it just me who can’t see the logic in that? Cresco Capital Group

Where is the sense of proportion in this country?

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As detailed in this category, the building next door has been under renovation for about seven years which has meant an inferno of noise, and for example, I have not been able to use my balcony for as many summers, for one reason or the other, including this summer, which has perhaps so far been the noisiest of all because they are pretending to be doing some landscape gardening downstairs.

During all this time, our Hausverwaltung has been mostly silent and seemingly more on the side of the investors next door than on ours.

Imagine my surprise, then, when this morning I received a letter (yes – as in snailmail – how absurd and laughable is that in itself?) informing me that the fence downstairs between our plot of land and that of the monstrosity next door will be replaced this week. End of.

Now, when I receive an actual letter, as in by Deutsche Post, I assume it is about something important, and which will have consequences for me and/or require some sort of action from my side. So I opened it.

But that is literally all they write. Not a word about why they are telling us this after basically never having warned us about particularly noisy weeks months and years. Not to mention the scaffolding and debris which prevented me from using my balcony for at least two summers, one of which was at the height of the pandemic when it would have been really nice to have the use of that outdoor space. Especially since I was promised at the beginning that my balcony would not be affected. One of, as it has turned out, many lies told to me since I moved to Berlin.

Seriously? Is that all they wanted to tell us – by LETTER, as if we don’t have eyes in our heads and can see what is happening? WHY BOTHER TO SEND A LETTER about something so unimportant, trivial, and non-conseqential after having ignored all the real problems we have been having basically for the last handful of years????? Who cares that an old FENCE is being removed and replaced by a new one?

Starting to think about next travels. Kostrzyn, ….. Katowice, …… Georgia, …..?

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Before Covid19, I was quite systematically visiting cities and towns in Poland, and did manage quite a lot, since that is now my new neighbouring country, but recently, I seem to have forgotten that project, except those that can be reached on foot from Frankfurt/Oder and Görlitz.

I have also always been hearing good things about Georgia. Unfortunately, in the meantime, I decided to never fly again, so I may have to abandon that principle briefly, unless I want to spend three days getting there.

But for now, I am looking for good websites about all of the above.

Already visited Gdansk, Krakow, Lodz, Lublin, Poznan, Szczecin, Torun, Warsaw, and Wroclaw. Would like to visit Warsaw again.

Visitors on my balcony June 2024

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A rare honour nowadays. Despite my attempts to attract pollinators by sowing several pots of wildflowers amongst the herbs, only the marjoram attracted a couple of visitors.

More unwelcome visitors are the pigeons, rats with wings, that seem to be looking for nesting places almost all year round. One afternoon I watched one flying in and out of a neighbour’s porch with construction material. I think it has been discovered in the meantime and the structure disposed of. It is not nice to return home from holiday, for example, to find a nest full of eggs, or worse ……..

I am still trying to photograph the swifts that are sometimes swarming in great numbers near my balcony, but even with my camera locked and loaded, and a lot of the time perfect light conditions, they are too, well …. swift …..

Pfaueninsel 28 June 2024

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I am not sure why it has taken me so long to visit “Peacock Island“, except perhaps the fact that I have never really liked peacocks (pompous divas) nor old buildings, nor manicured parks, and all those are represented there.

Bus 218 leaves from S Bahn Station Wannsee once every hour (on weekends twice every hour) and stops by the small ferry which leaves more or less on demand and the rides takes about fifteen seconds. A return ticket costs 6 euro and can be bought from machines – one for cash and one for cards.

As it turned out, most of the buildings there are currently being renovated and therefore scaffolded and inaccessible, so I ended up taking many more photos of peacocks than I had expected.

Fortunately, it is not all overly-manicured park – there are some more unkempt areas more to do with real nature. I heard many birds, but saw just a few. Mid summer is not the best time for birdwatching.

I was pleased to ascertain that peacocks are clumsy and inelegant flyers :-).

The island is easily walkable, though due to the occasional thunder and heavy rain, I did not stay long enough to walk all around it and am therefore definitely planning to go back.

There is a kind of café with food kind of one step up from junk food, and what looked like nice, homemade cakes, and there is also a rather large restaurant on “the mainland” just by the ferry.

Definitely a nice day out

Stuffed eggplant – Indian Bharwa Baingan – or that was the plan

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I was unable to find the right type of eggplant, so I decided to use the purple ones which are available everywhere. I also decided against stuffing them, which made it a lot less messy but also the end result a lot less elegant. Hopefully, the flavour is still OK. Here is what I did:

2 medium,sized, purple eggplants, cut into wedges

For what was to be the stuffing – now the marinade:

  • 1 teaspoon oil
  • 1 tblsp coriander seeds
  • 1 tsp cumin seeds
  • 2 dried red chilli peppers (broken into pieces) or the equivalent quantity of whatever form of chili you have available
  • 4 green cardamom pods
  • 4 cloves
  • 1 medium red onion (chopped)
  • 50 g cashew nuts
  • 2 tblsp sesame seeds (I am using black ones)
  • 50 g grated coconut

  • 4 tblsp coriander leaves
  • 1 tblsp garam masala (despite my best intentions, I have not yet gotten round to making my own, so am using storebought)
  • 2 tblsp dark brown sugar (or molasses, but then a bit less due to the strong flavour
  • ½ tsp turmeric
  • ½ to 1 tsp cayenne pepper or any other kind of chili pepper you have available – to taste
  • Salt to taste

Heat 1 tsp oil t on medium heat, add coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cloves, cardamom pods and chili, saute until the coriander seeds are a light reddish-brown and all the spices are very aromatic, about 2-3 minutes on medium heat.

Add one chopped red onion and saute until it softens.

Add cashews and sesame seeds and saute for a couple more minutes over medium heat. Then add the grated coconut and sauté for a couple of minutes. Take off the heat and add turmeric, brown sugar, and garam masala, and salt, mix well, and set aside to cool enough to be added to a blender and blended into a coarse past.

Pour this paste over the eggplant wedges and leave them to marinade while your prepare the rest.

1 tin chopped tomatoes

1 tblsp oil

1 tsp mustard seeds

1 tsp cumin seeds

Pinch asafetida

  • 2 red onions finely diced
  • 1 knob fresh garlic, minced
  • 4 cloves garlic, minced
  • 2 medium potatoes of type that will not fall apart easily, halved and then quartered

1 red onion, finely chopped

4 potatoes in wedges

  • In the same wok or skillet add 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add mustard seeds and when they sputter add cumin seeds and asafetida. Stir in the last cup of onions. Saute until the onions begin to brown.
  • Stir in ginger and garlic and saute for a couple more minutes.
  • Place the stuffed eggplants in the wok in a single layer.
  • Mix the sliced potatoes with any leftover masala in the bowl and add to the wok or pan, arranging the potatoes carefully on the sides of and between the eggplant.
  • Add the tin of chopped tomato along the edges of the vegetables. Once the liquid bubbles and boils, cover the pot. Turn heat down to medium low and let the eggplants cook about 15-20 minutes. Add a little water along the edges as needed to ensure the eggplants and potatoes don’t stick, or if you want a saucier dish.
  • After the eggplants have cooked for 10 minutes, turn them around gently to so they cook evenly on all sides. Use a spoon or small ladle to ensure you don’t mash the eggplants or potatoes.
  • Once the eggplants are very soft, turn off the heat, garnish with cilantro and serve hot.

Goan Cashew Curry (Kaju Masala)

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This Goan style cashew curry is made of whole cashews cooked to a delectable, toothsome tenderness with potatoes in a spicy coconut sauce. Serve over steamed rice.

Prep Time15minutes mins

Cook Time30minutes mins

Soaking time for cashews30minutes mins

Total Time1hour hr 15minutes mins

Course: Main Course/Curry

Cuisine: Goan, Indian

Diet: Gluten Free, Vegan, Vegetarian

Servings: 6 servings

Calories: 336kcal

Author: Vaishali · Holy Cow Vegan

Equipment

Ingredients

Instructions

  • Soak the cashews in warm water for 30 minutes. Strain out all water before using the cashews.
  • In a wide saucepan or Dutch oven heat a teaspoon of oil over medium heat. Add coriander seeds, cumin seeds, bay leaves, green cardamom pods, optional brown cardamom pod, cloves and bay leaves. Saute for a couple of minutes until the spices are very aromatic.
  • Add half the onions, saute for a few minutes until they begin to brown, then add half the tomatoes. Cook the tomatoes until they are very soft. Remove everything to a plate and let it cool to room temperature. Add 1 cup water and blend to a smooth paste. Set the paste aside.
  • In the same pan, heat a teaspoon of oil. Add mustard seeds and, when they sputter and crackle, add the remaining onions and a bit of salt. Saute the onions until translucent.
  • Add ginger garlic paste, stir it in for a minute, then add the remaining tomatoes and saute until soft and pulpy.
  • Stir in the potatoes. Add turmeric, Kashmiri chilli powder or cayenne and garam masala. Mix well.
  • Add the blended masala paste to the pot, then add the cashews and mix. Add up to another cup of water to thin the sauce if it’s too thick.
  • Cover and cook the curry for 10 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Stir in the herbs: the optional curry leaves and cilantro.
  • Add the coconut milk to the pot, mix and bring the curry to a boil. Lower heat and let the curry simmer for 10 minutes. Add salt to taste. Garnish with more cilantro, if you wish, before serving.

Basel 12-16 June 2024

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Direct night train (Nightjet) to and from.

To visit the following:

Art Basel

Volta Basel

Photo Basel

Liste Basel

And while there:

Zoo Basel

Kunsthalle Basel

Kunstmuseum Basel

Travel and day one

After a surreal start to the journey, involving an almost four-hour trip from home to the central station (which normally takes about 30 to 45 minutes by public transport), being shunted from S-Bahn to regional train, standing like sardines in a tin for over an hour in one of them, being fed completely wrong information by the train driver (probably not his fault – he was fed the wrong information by someone else). Due to the “Zelensky meeting” (and good for Berlin to host it – don’t get me wrong), the story was that the police kept stopping all traffic to and from, and into and out of, the central station, and that people should not even attempt to walk there. Taxis also were not allowed through. One train driver told me that it was unlikely that my night train would even be allowed to arrive at the station, let alone depart again on time or even that night.

When I finally left the station, debating with myself what to do, a taxi stopped miraculously almost in front of me and the driver said that of course he could take me to the central station. I of course imagined a massive police presence around the central station, but as it turned out, getting there was no problem at all, and there was virtually no police there – as in: even less than on normal days, neither around nor inside the station. Inside the station, all signs were like frozen in time with departures being announced like between one and two hours earlier, but when I got to the platform previously announced for my nighttrain, imagine my surprise when it arrived just then, and departed punctually.

The whole thing was very strange, but the bottom line was that I could have taken a taxi or even walked from Friedrichstraße station and had plenty of time to get something to eat at the central station before starting the overnight train ride. I guess we’ll never know who fucked up the most badly.

I still have no idea who misinformed whom and why. But anyway, I was finally on my way. For some reason, perhaps, perhaps not related to the chaos in Berlin, there was a lengthy delay in Leipzig where I took the first photos, and then a couple more on the way.

Day one, arrival, walkabout, a word about hotel prices during the art fairs (just like in Kassel during Dokumenta, they crank them up to absurd levels), and Volta Basel. Also a couple of photos of the view from my hotel room – probably not the last.

Day two Art Basel

I had forgotten how big that art fair is, or perhaps it IS bigger than last time I was here, or perhaps I just don’t have the stamina I used to have :-).

Note to self: if you ever visit again, get a multi-entry ticket and set aside one more day in order to be able to take more of it in.

There are food trucks between the two main halls of the fair, and plenty of food and drink to be had inside one of the halls.

Day three Basel Zoo

Took a break from contemporary art.

And finally, an amusing encounter with what seemed to be a horse that likes to strike a pose for the camera. I swear – when I appeared and raised my camera, he/she came trotting forward, placed him/herself in that position, and after I took the photo and lowered my camera – walked away. This is not the first time I have had similar experiences with animals who have seemingly been conditioned to pose for the camera, so I no longer think I am just imagining things :-).

Day four – Photo Basel and Liste Basel

Unfortunately, at Photo Basel, they used those lamps that create thick black stripes when taking photos of the photos, so that is fairly redundant.

But first, some more photos of the view from my hotel room. It changes all the time.

And elsewhere in Basel: Art is everywhere all the time:

Day five – Kunsthalle Basel, Kunstmuseum Basel, walkabout, and the Nightjet back to Berlin

The life of a Danish pensioner in Berlin